Leadville 100

2016 LEADVILLE TRAIL 100 RUN

AUGUST 20^TH – 21^ST

“We’re so unfamiliar with quitting around here we’re not even 

sure how the word is spelled!”                 

 Ken Chlouber, Founder of Leadville Trail Races

Those were the words I heard the day before my Leadville journey started.  During the annual pre-race meeting, Leadville’s founder eloquently charged the 1,000+ people at the Lake County High School gym to “commit, don’t quit!”  Ken must’ve had us repeat it 10x.  As a newby to Leadville, I had no idea what I was in for.  Sure, I studied the route, met with previous Leadville finishers, read blog’s and other “probably-completely-boring-to-non-ultra-runner” articles but I honestly had no real idea.  Ken knew, though.  Historically, one has less than a 50% chance of finishing Leadville.  That’s somewhat typical for 100 milers but being the largest 100 miler in the country, the figure was shocking to me.  I would think every runner would come to Leadville “over prepared” given its status as one of premier ultra-races in the world.  Boy, was I wrong.  By 10 am on Sunday, 52% of the 800 runners called it quits before reaching the finish line.  Thankfully, the words from Ken rang true; I committed and didn’t quit.

 

Leadville is different from all the previous ultra-races I've done.  For starters, the town of Leadville happens to be at 10,200 feet which is the highest incorporated city in America.  The air is thin and the trees are plentiful.  Leadville is beautiful and full of quaint shops, antique stores, and coffee shops.  Harrison Street (the main street in town) reminds me of a movie set with historic Victorian buildings lining the street for several blocks.  The race itself is an out and back course.  Run 50 miles then turn around and run back.  The good news is you know the course.  The bad news is you know the course.  Hope Pass is at mile 45 and then again at 55.  More on that nightmare later.

On August 20^th, our alarm in the tiny cabin in the woods went off at 2:15 am.  Yes, 2:15 am!  The race started at 4 am and our place was about 30 minutes from town.  Not much sleep and I was already tired before I took a step.  In the dark, Meggin and I got ready for what would be an adventure of a lifetime.  Meggin was almost as nervous as me.  She was my lone crew and was scared of missing me at an aid station, getting lost on the way to an aid station, and the many emotions a wife must feel when their husband is about to get to the brink of physical and mental possibility. I knew she would be fine but she wasn’t convinced.  Though Meg wasn’t running the race, she was going to be alongside me the whole way and was going to be up all night.  It was going to be a long day for both us.

The plan was to drop me off at the start line at 3:15 am.  Coincidentally, a friend of mine was running the race as well.  Darrel and I met through a few mutual friends a couple months before Leadville.  We had the chance to run together at home and were similar paces.  Our race plan was also somewhat similar so it made sense to start the race together.  Having Darrell and his family in Leadville turned out to be providential for Meggin.  Since our projected times at the aid stations were similar, we planned for Meg and the Schultz’s to sit together.  They not only sat together but truly cared for Meggin through the day and night.  She couldn’t have crewed me without their help and care.  As a result, they have become lifelong friends of ours.  Funny how an ultra-marathon can do that. 

Meg dropped me off at 3:15 am and I met Darrell shortly thereafter.  We were both very excited for the day and were excited to experience Leadville.  Race morning was cold, about 38 degrees or so, but thankfully the forecast was clear.  Oftentimes, it rains in Leadville.  Often I mean daily.  It rains a lot.  However, the skies were clear and there were no clouds anywhere in sight.  As the start time came closer, the nerves started.  I second guessed my fitness, my ability to cope with the altitude, the ability to even finish.  100 miles in the mountains is a long way.  Honestly, I wasn’t sure of anything.

Moments before the race started, Ken repeated the mantra, “Commit, don’t quit!  I’ll be here waiting for you with a finisher medal to put around your neck!”  Ken was passionate and serious.  Promptly at 4 am, the race was on!  Darrell and I eased into a pace in the first few miles averaging 7:45 – 8 minute per mile.  The race starts downhill for the first 7 miles then veers onto a rolling single track around Turquoise Lake for another 6.5 miles.  It was pitch black outside and headlamps were a must.  Darrell and I were running towards the front of the pack and feeling very comfortable.  The altitude and cold were non-issues.  About 3 miles after we hit Turquoise Lake, I passed a few runners and Darrell didn’t follow.  Prior to the race, we told each other that we would run our own races and if the pacing was the same we would stay together.  For about a mile prior, I was running on the heels of a guy who was farting continuously (no joke).  As you can imagine, I was not a fan and at the first chance, I was going to pass he and another runner who was just in front of him.  I did just that and didn’t see Darrell again till mile 52 ish.  At 5:55 am, I rolled into May Queen Outbound aid station, almost exactly to when I told Meg I would arrive.  It was still dark out which proved to be a small problem.  I couldn’t find Meggin.  After a minute of running up and down the crew area, I finally found her and Darrell’s folks.  It was a mad house there.  So many people eagerly awaiting their runners.  After a quick refueling, I was off again.  Next stop was Outward Bound at mile 24.5.

It was just before 6 am and the morning light was coming.  I still had my headlamp on and the temperature was hovering at 40 degrees but it was comfortable.  Just outside May Queen, the path lead up an asphalt road.  It was the first real climb of the day.  Not much but a nice change to the downhill running before.  After the asphalt the trail lead to a single track and more climbing.  This was a really nice section.  I ran with the 3^rd and 4^th place women for several miles here and I could tell they were very strong runners.  Both had Salomon kits on which meant sponsored by Salomon which meant they were fast.  After about 3 miles they took off.  I continued on and finally made it to the crest of the hill which later in the day served as the craziest aid station I have ever seen.  Ever.  Turns out after the crest, I was running down the infamous “Powerline” section – a 3.5 mile downhill section that has deep 3’ ruts in the middle.  It’s a very technical fire road that makes the runner jump from side to side the entire way down.  I enjoy descending and made quick work of it.  Before I knew it I was on an asphalt road with the Outward Bound aid station in view.  After 3 miles on the road, I turned into Outward Bound and immediately spotted Meggin.  The sun was out and it was getting warmer.  I quickly changed shirts, gave Meg my jacket and headlamp, and refueled.  After about 5 minutes, I was off.  25 miles done in just under 4 hours.  I was right on schedule.

Through the arch at the end of the aid station, the route made its way on a mowed uneven section of grass.  I was not a fan but the views were absolutely stunning.  Surrounded by mountains and epic scenery.  After a few miles of grass, I was back on the asphalt for a few more miles.  Then the race veered onto a fire road before hitting Treeline which was an unofficial aid station in the middle of nowhere.  I ran through the cheers before finally hitting Half Pipe and mile 31.  Out of the 31 miles, I ran most of them.  I was averaging 9:38 minute miles and feeling very good.  After Half Pipe the trail continued on a flat fire road then down a steeper fire road to the largest aid station of the race – Twin Lakes and mile 40. 

Twin Lakes acts as the main hub for crew and sits at the base of Hope Pass.  I arrived at 10:45 am and wouldn’t see Meggin again till almost 6 pm.  The halfway point at Winfield is nearly impossible for crew to get to and thus the majority of crew wait for their runners at Twin Lakes.  Knowing I wouldn’t see Meg for so long, I had to bring enough fuel and clothes for the 20 mile round trip. I also heard that Hope Pass can be cold so I brought a jacket, beanie, and gloves.  I was prepared for a solo 50k by the time I left Twin Lakes.

After 40 miles of running, I was actually ready to hike a bit.  Just after Twin Lakes the trail goes through another mowed section of grass until the river’s edge.  In some years, the river is at waist height.  Thankfully, it was a low year and was just up to my knees.  It was the first water section of the race and the water was frigid.  It took about 5 minutes to feel my feet after I crossed.  Once I crossed the river, the trail quickly gained altitude.  It wasn’t switch backs but was straight up single track.  There was water coming down the middle of the trail and it was steep.  The power hiking quickly turned to just hiking and the 9 minute miles I had run for so long turned to 24 minute miles.  I was starting to feel the effects of 7 hours of running but knew the day hadn’t really begun.  Hope Pass was living up to the hype that I’d heard from so many people.  After an hour of hiking I finally made it to Hope Pass aid station.  I was tired but didn’t stay long.  I passed the eating llamas and then was passed by the race leader, Max King.  He was at mile 55 and I was at 45.  Hard to fathom he was that far ahead already.  After another mile, I finally summited Hope Pass at 12,600 feet.  The views were absolutely insane.  I had never been that high before and the pain of the climb was worth every step.  Plus, the weather was incredible.  Probably 50-55 degrees and clear skies.  On the back side of Hope Pass, the trail was so steep it was hard to run.  I was ready to stretch the legs but feared I would trip and fall off the side.  I settled for a slow run.  At this point, the elite runners were starting to make their way up Hope Pass from Winfield.  One by one they came.  I figured I was running in 50^th or so place by the time I reached mile 50. 

To my surprise, Winfield was a lot bigger than I expected.  There was a great energy and a lot of people milling all around.  Hope Pass took a lot out of me and I knew I needed help getting back up.  As soon as I reached the aid station, I asked the staff if there were any pacers available.  They called on the loud speaker and to my excitement, Stu the pacer extraordinaire showed up.  Stu’s runner fell early on and had to drop.  So that made Stu available.  His car was at Outward Bound (mile 75.5) and he hadn’t found a ride back.  Perfect timing.  Actually, it was God’s timing.  I had been praying a few miles before Winfield that a pacer would be able to help. In walks Stu! 

Stu was great.  He had run Leadville twice and finished under 25 hours which was my goal.  Stu had the knowledge and experience I needed.  Stu was also the most positive person I had ever met.  With him, I knew I could get through Leadville and knew I could enjoy it along the way.  I made it to Winfield at 2:20 pm and 10 hours 21 minutes into the race.  I was doing well but about 30 minutes behind schedule.  I had my work cut out and was entering the most difficult part of the race.  Turns out, the most difficult climb of my life.

Turning around at Winfield and traversing back the way I came was daunting mentally.  All those early downhill miles started to play back in my mind.  Coming back to town they would be all uphill and it would be well past midnight.  Stu quickly got my head straight and we started the trek back.  For 2+ miles the trail was rolling and quite pleasant.  I was able to run on the flatter portions but had to hike the uphills.  The trail was super crowded as runners were coming down into Winfield as we were going out.  It seemed every few feet we were moving from side to side and saying the obligatory, “Great job, keep pushing” to every single runner.  One of those runners was my buddy, Darrell.  I hadn’t seen him since Turquoise Lake.  It was great to see a familiar face.  He looked good and seemed to be in good spirits.  After a moment, we shared a few words and we off our separate ways.  That was the last I would see of Darrell till Sunday.  The rolling section ended and the climbing back up Hope Pass started.  I thought climbing up the front side was hard.  The back side was insane - 20% grade for 2.5 miles.  2.5 miles doesn’t sound like a lot but trust me, at that grade, it’s forever.  I averaged 30 minute miles and rarely stopped.  I was sweating more than ever and barely moving.  Stu kept saying that I was on a great pace and don’t worry about the many many runners that were passing me (as an aside, a pacer’s duty is to keep his runner positive and upbeat and moving forward).  I knew Stu was lying but I embraced the encouragement and kept moving.  By the time I reached the summit, my quads were on fire.  I wasn’t sure if they would allow me to run down Hope Pass and back into Twin Lakes.  Fortunately, I was able to muster a 15 minute pace down the front side, through the river again, and then into Twin Lakes aid station.  This time around we were at mile 60 and it was 6 pm.  Miraculously, I was back on schedule.  It was so good to see Meggin and the Schultz family.  I hadn’t see Meggin in 7+ hours and I needed a few minutes with her to get me back mentally.  Also, the Tailwind nutrition that I was drinking all day was starting to not taste good.  I knew I needed it but it was hard to drink.  Good news was my stomach was great and not upset at all. 

After a change of shoes, socks, and shirt, Stu and I were off to Half Pipe.  The first part was all uphill.  I hiked this entire section hoping to get my legs back for the long level portion before and after Half Pipe.  I was able to run a bit but not what I wanted.  Stu and I would run for 2 minutes then walk for 1.  Run for 2 then walk for 1.  We repeated that for several miles until we reached Half Pipe at 8:12 pm and mile 69.  The sun was setting and the temperature was dropping.  Thankfully, I had the gear I needed and started to layer up.  Unfortunately, Stu didn’t have any warm clothes until Tree Line which was only about 2.5 miles away.  Once we reached Treeline, Stu’s crew (from his scheduled runner) was there.  It was nice to stop for a few minutes.  By this time, it was pitch black out and cold.  I was still in shorts but was warm.  The next 3-4 miles to Outward Bound was mostly downhill.  I was able to run a bit but definitely not moving well.  My quads were in pain and I was just trying to survive.  Stu really believed that if I kept moving, I would finish in under 25 hours.  I wasn’t so sure.  We finally made it to Outward Bound at 9:48 pm.  I had been running for almost 18 hours and feeling the effects of it.  Stu’s day was done.  He was pivotal in my journey and without him, I’m not sure I finish.  The power of positivity is something I knew was real but it became cemented with Stu. 

At Outward Bound, I bundled up with sweats, a beanie, gloves, and jacket.  It was probably below 40 degrees already and I knew the night was just beginning.  Stu had prepped me for this next section.  It was basically the last climb of the day and was notorious for kicking the behind of most runners.  The Powerline climb was difficult early in the day as a downhill.  Uphill, though, it was a whole different deal. 

I was all alone now.  Stu asked if I wanted him to find a pacer for me.  I said no thinking that the pacer would just be bored walking the last 25 miles.  Obviously, I wasn’t going to walk the entire way but my body and legs were telling me otherwise.  The first several miles after Outward Bound was on an asphalt road around the fish hatchery.  Much earlier in the day I was running this section at 8 minute pace.  Now, at just after 10 pm I could barely run.  I was doing the 2 minute on, 1 minute off until I hit the fire road to Powerline.  At that point, it was all mental.  I kept my head down and charged (slowly) up the hill.  Other than being passed by one runner, I was all alone.  It was actually beautiful out.  The stars were in full view and my breath was visible.  I was never cold but it was certainly cold out.  About a mile from the summit of Powerline, I heard a loud horn.  The runner and her pacer that passed me asked if I had ever done Leadville before.  I said no and they chuckled about what was coming at the summit.  About 25 minutes later, I started seeing blue balloons in the trees and light sticks on the ground.  Music was increasing in volume as I approached the make shift aid station.  When I arrived, I was the sole runner.  There were about 20 or so people dancing around with lights shining everywhere.  There were brownies to eat (I dared not try them) and plenty of beer to drink.  It was a wild scene and a great respite to the pain of Powerline.  The hippy people were having a great time and their excitement was palpable.  After a drink of water (seriously) and some chips, I was off.  The next section is absolutely runnable; mostly downhill fire roads to a single track.  After 80 miles and wrecked quads, I wasn’t doing much running unfortunately.  I ran slowly.  I walked even slower.  I contemplated where I had been and why I was in such pain.  In that state, though, I never wanted to quit.  I did want to finish but knew I still had a number of hours before that was a reality.  After a very slow 5 miles, I made it to the last aid station and mile 86.5 – May Queen Inbound.  It was 1:36 am. 

I sat for a bit with Meg and tried to gather myself for the final 13.5 miles to the finish.  It was about 35 degrees out and Meg was freezing.  I could tell it had been a long day for her.  She encouraged me to keep going and that the 25 hour buckle was still possible.  I had a little under 3 ½ hours to go 13.5 miles.  While I’m writing this it sounds ridiculous.  Earlier in the day I did almost 25 miles in basically the same time.  However, that was on fresh legs and strong quads.  After 86.5 miles, there was nothing fresh.  I was tired and worn out and couldn’t run at all. 

I left May Queen and started the long trek around Turquoise Lake.  I was able to run for a mile or so before giving in to the pain and resigned to walking.  I was averaging 18 minute miles and knew breaking 25 hours was going to be a challenge.  The route along the lake seemed to take forever.  It did.  After 7 miles I finally reached the road to Leadville.  Unfortunately, I knew the last 6.5 miles were all uphill.  Normally, I would easily be able to run this grade but I had long given up on that a few hours back.  I walked and walked and walked and finally reached Lake County High School.  I could hear the finish line and I could see the lights.  I was about 2 miles away.

I remember from the day before thinking that it would be amazing if I could run down 6^th street straight to the red carpet that greets the runners before the finish.  What a great feeling it would be to see Meg and the crowds waiting.  In actuality, Meg was there but the crowds were not.  It was 5:25 am and cold.  There were not more than 10 people at the finish.  I vaguely remember the announcer welcoming me home but definitely remember Ken placing the finisher’s medal around my neck.  I walked straight to Meg, gave her a hug and a kiss, and basically collapsed on her.  After 25 hours, 25 minutes, and 16 seconds, my journey was over and I was officially a Leadville 100 Trail finisher.  I was part of the Leadville family.  In that moment, the sense of accomplishment wasn’t present at all.  That would come later.  All I wanted was a hot shower and a bed. 

Less than 5 minutes after finishing, Meg and I were back in the car on the way to our cabin.  Our day was over and our journey complete.

Leadville by far was the hardest race of my life.  It didn’t go quite as I planned but by God’s grace and favor and Meg and Stu’s help and encouragement I was able to finish it.  For that, I am deeply thankful and proud. 

Experiencing Leadville with Meggin was a dream and a memory that I will never forget.  Our time away was in celebration of 22 years of marriage.  I don’t believe it was the vacation Meg was thinking of but the many hours spent together and the pain and agony of a 100 mile race was the type of bonding that makes a marriage even stronger.  I love Meg more than ever and I can’t wait for our next adventure together.