Thursday, April 20, 2017

ITALY – Running Through History



Running on new terrain is always great but running on new terrain in ITALY?  The best!

Meggin and I had the opportunity to see our oldest girls, Carlin and Bella, perform with their school choir in Italy a few weeks ago.  The plan was to follow them from city to city to hear them sing in famous churches and venues.  The tour started in Venice, then headed southwest to Tuscany and Florence, with the finale in Rome.  A total of 8 days in country and a total of 9 concerts.

Of course, my plan was to follow my girls from city to city and to explore the area by foot.  Since I was with Meggin (and I already run way too much at home anyways), I decided early on that I would run when able and wouldn’t force the subject.  If there was some downtime, I would quickly put on my shoes and head out.  The plan actually worked great.  I was able to run in every city we stayed and loved every mile.

Venice.  What a magical place.  We arrived at dusk via water taxi and even in our jetlag, were amazed at the beauty of the city.  Tiny narrow streets surrounded by canals and ancient buildings.  Even in the off season, the place was crowded.  I cannot imagine the summer months.  Still, the place was special.  Knowing how crowded it was at night, I knew that waking up early to run was a must.  However, my body had different plans.  We slept in and then Meggin and I walked the city together and even ran into Bella and a bunch of other LCHS students.  Such a wonderful day with perfect weather.  By midday, though, we were back at the hotel and I was itching to get out there.  I was only able to run 4 miles and followed the Grand Canal till it ended.  It was like running in Balboa but without cars and with way more people.  On the way back, I actually ran into Carlin on one of the streets by St. Marks Basilica.  Super random given the amount of people everywhere.  So fun to run in one of the most beautiful places around.

Grand Canal

St. Mark's Square and Basilica
Tuscany.  Not as much magical as it is beautiful.  Rolling hills, grape vines, and large estates seemingly mark every corner.  After a concert in Figline, we drove about an hour into the hills to a village called Greve in Chianti which is about 3 kilometers away from Panzano (another village known for the Butcher of Panzano).  Our Airbnb was charming and beautiful and the perfect place to unwind after a busy few days in Venice. 

After a wonderful breakfast the next morning and at the urging of our caretaker, we opted to visit Siena and the Piazza del Campo instead of heading to Florence.  Siena is a great city and the Piazza is amazing.  During the 13th century, the Piazza was a marketplace and the center of town.  Now it’s surrounded by shops and restaurants and a meeting place for residents and visitors alike.  We spent the better part of the afternoon in Siena.  Upon our arrival back in Chianti, I had about an hour to run.  I headed out for a 6 miler and it was glorious.  Running through Panzano and through other tiny villages was pretty special.  That night, we had dinner at the Butcher of Panzano’s place.  Google it.  What a great experience.

Tuscany from our window
Concert in Figline, Tuscany

Piazza del Campo, Siena
Butcher of Panzano
Rome.  At first, Meggin and I were disappointed.  We drove from Venice to Tuscany and a few spots in between and were amazed at the landscape and charm and lack of crowds.  Upon arrival at the main train station, the drop off spot for our trusty Fiat 500, we were shocked with the massive crowds and the massive amounts of graffiti.  It. Was. Everywhere.  After several failed attempts at finding the parking structure, we finally found it and made our way to the train station.  At this point, we definitely looked and felt like tourists.  Thankfully, we found someone who spoke English and were able to make our way to the proper train.  We had 4 stops to get to our Airbnb.  After 20 minutes or so, we exited the train, walked about 200 meters and were in awe of what we saw.  The Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica. 

From our balcony, the dome at St. Peter’s was in full view.  If you haven’t been to Rome and haven’t seen St. Peter’s, you are missing out on one of the world’s best places.  That is no exaggeration.  St. Peter’s is by far the most amazing structures I have ever seen. 

After dinner across from the Vatican that night, the next morning/day we were going to explore Rome.  Not knowing where to go, we decided that I would wake up early and run the city.  Of course, I obliged and with Google Maps in hand, I headed out promptly at 7 am.  I ran down to the Vatican, over the canal to the cobble stone streets.  From there I headed south to the Monument of Victor Emmanuel and the Coliseum.  Where am I?  I circled the Coliseum, pinched myself a few times, then headed up to Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon before heading back over the canal and St. Peter’s Square.  It was one of my most memorable runs of all time.  I only ran 7 miles but covered a lot of ground and was able to see some of Earth’s most coveted sites.  I was also basically alone at each spot which I would later find out, was a unique experience. 

I was back to our flat by 8:30 am and excited to tell and show Meggin all that I had seen.  We left the flat about 10 am and basically retraced my footsteps but added the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel to our tour.  We walked for 7+ hours.  The quietness of the morning was a distance memory as the crowds in each spot were overwhelming.  We made it back by 5 pm.  Tired but amazed by what we saw.  By days end, I had walked over 45,000 steps.

Rome is an amazing place.  It’s a blend of new and extremely old.  Someday, I would like to go back and do more exploring.  For now, I’ll just remember the smile on my face from that morning.

Roman ruins

Coliseum

Monument of Victor Emmanuel

Pantheon

St. Peter's Square and Basilica

Trevi Fountain
Orvieto.  After nearly a week in country and several concerts, the girls were wrapping up their trip.  Meggin and I decided to stay through the weekend and left Rome for Orvieto.  My sister, Allison, first told us about Orvieto and encouraged us to go there.  Orvieto was built during the Etruscan times around 250 BC.  The entire town is built on top of a hill and is something to behold.  By the end of the trip, Orvieto would prove to be our favorite spot.  It was beautiful and interesting and just amazing.  After a tour of the city on Friday, I had the chance to run for the last time in Italy.  I chose to run opposite Orvieto and found a trail at the top of the hill to the west.  It was almost surreal running on a hillside in Italy with views of Orvieto in the distance.  Only a 6 mile run but with a fair amount of climbing, it was the perfect distance. 

Orvieto in the distance
Trail in Orvieto

Cave just off the trail

Italy was a trip of a lifetime.  Meggin and I were able to reconnect and enjoyed every minute of our time together.  We ate great food, drank our fair share of Chianti, saw amazing things, and loved watching our girls perform.  What a trip!